Athena Calderone's Paccheri with Pork Shoulder Ragù & Creamy Goat Cheese
I’ve never cubed pork shoulder before roasting it, but it is so much easier than roasting it whole and pulling it apart afterwards. I knew the moment I came across this recipe for Pork Shoulder Ragù in Athena Calderone’s Cook Beautiful book that it would be a winner at Kitchen 511 (or an “All-Star Dish” as Stephan has come to coin his top favorite meals). I’ve made it twice, and we have it on night #1 as a pasta sauce, and because it yields a decent amount of meat, we actually have enough leftovers to make tacos on night #2. (Well, at least now that there are 3 in the house vs. 6.) They’re both so delicious, I can’t decide which I prefer.
Note: The first time I made this dish, I “shredded” the pork cubes after roasting them, as suggested in the recipe. We all thought the meat should have been chunkier, however, so the second time I made it, I simply broke the cubes in two, leaving much more substantial pieces of pork behind. It’s much tastier this way, so don’t overdo it on the shredding. Also, the goat cheese hadn’t yet been added in the photo above, but it’s an amazing addition.
Serves 6
Ingredients
4 pounds (1.8 kg) boneless pork shoulder, excess fat trimmed, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces
Salt and freshly cracked pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 sprigs fresh sage
1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
5 cups (1.2 L) low-sodium chicken stock (enough to just cover the meat)
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/55 g) unsalted butter
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 carrots, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
1 (28-ounce/785-g) can crushed San Marzano tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 pound (455 g) dried paccheri or rigatoni (I used penne above but much prefer rigatoni)
4 ounces (115 g) goat cheese
1⁄2 cup (50 g) coarsely grated pecorino Romano cheese
4 sprigs fresh parsley, chopped Freshly cracked pepper, for serving
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 325oF (165 ̊C).
Season the pork generously with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, sear half the pork until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a large plate, then repeat with the remaining meat. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pot. Tie the rosemary and sage into a bundle with kitchen twine, then add it to the pot along with the wine. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits of pork stuck to the bottom of the pot. Simmer over medium-low heat until the wine has reduced by half. Return the pork to the pot, pour in the stock, and bring it to a simmer. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and place it in the oven. Cook for 1 1⁄2 to 2 hours, or until the pork is very tender.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a platter. Skim the fat off the top of the braising liquid and return the pot to the stove. Bring the braising liquid to a boil and boil vigorously for approximately 30 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to about 1 cup (240 ml). Meanwhile, shred (not too thin!) the pork with a fork.
Transfer the reduced braising liquid to a small bowl. Return the pot to the stove and melt the butter over medium heat. Add the fennel seeds, carrots, celery, onion, and garlic and sauté until the onion is soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute. Add the milk, tomatoes, tomato paste, pork, and reserved braising liquid. Simmer, uncovered, until the flavors meld and the ragu thickens slightly, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Taste for seasoning.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Add the paccheri and cook according to the package directions, until al dente. Drain the pasta.
In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese and 1⁄3 cup (75 ml) warm water, stirring vigorously until it takes on a smooth, creamy consistency, similar to sour cream.
To serve, divide the pasta among bowls and pile each serving with the ragu. Top with some grated cheese, chopped parsley, and a dollop of goat cheese, and season with freshly cracked pepper.
